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I’ve dined in my fair share of restaurants, from serene candlelit suppers to street-food markets buzzing with energy. But nothing quite prepared me for TAPERNA in Brixton.
Nestled under Arch 47 on Atlantic Lane, this Spanish tapas bar promises authentic flavours, live music, and plenty of Spanish spirit. On the Saturday I visited, it delivered all that and more – partly thanks to a local summer festival turning Brixton into one giant street party. By the time I got to Atlantic Lane, the air was thick with music, chatter, and the kind of electric energy you can feel in your bones.
I knew this was going to be a lively night, I just didn’t realise my dinner would feel like part of the rave.
Location and atmosphere
Brixton’s Atlantic Lane is no stranger to noise and colour, but on this particular Saturday it was dialled up to eleven. A street festival had spilled across the arches, drawing crowds that danced, drank, and chatted under the warm glow of late-summer lights.
Inside TAPERNA, the energy only intensified. The space pulsed with booming Spanish beats from a live DJ, while salsa dancers twirled between tables. At one point, a group next to us banged metal clangers in time with the music – a tradition I’m not entirely sure was Spanish, but certainly added to the chaos.
On the one hand, it was a feast for the senses; vibrant, infectious, and brimming with personality. On the other hand, it was near-impossible to have a conversation without leaning halfway across the table or mouthing words exaggeratedly. I wasn’t sure whether to order another drink or request a set of noise-cancelling headphones.
Drinks and Food
TAPERNA’s menu is short and focused, with the drinks list taking up more real estate than the food. It’s very much in the Spanish tradition; small plates made for sharing, ice-cold beer, and a wine list dedicated entirely to Spain. On the cocktail side, I kicked things off with a classic Negroni. It was bitter, herbal, and perfectly balanced; while my dining companion went for a Daiquiri that was bright, sharp, and refreshing.
The food arrived in no particular order, which only added to the sense that you’re here to graze, sip, and repeat.
SARDINAS A LA PLANCHA: Plump, silver-skinned sardines grilled simply so their natural oils glistened under the lights. The flesh flaked apart at the touch of a fork, offering that briny, unmistakably “by-the-sea” flavour that fresh sardines deliver so well.
GAMBAS AL AJILLO: Tiger prawns, sizzling in a pool of garlicky olive oil with just the right amount of chilli heat. The aroma alone was intoxicating; rich, nutty garlic softened in oil, cut with the fresh sweetness of the prawns. This dish was, without question, one of the evening’s standouts.
PINCHO DE POLLO: Skewers of tender grilled chicken, lightly charred at the edges. The seasoning was subtle, letting the smoke from the grill take centre stage. Simple, satisfying, and a safe bet if you’re not a seafood lover.
CHORIZO A LA PLANCHA: Spanish spiced sausage that hit the pan just long enough to crisp at the edges, releasing paprika-rich oils that begged to be mopped up with bread (they didn’t have any).
ALBONDIGAS CON TOMATE: Juicy beef meatballs swimming in a rich tomato sauce with a slow-cooked depth. Comforting, hearty, and the second dish of the night that completely won me over.
PATATAS BRAVAS: Cubes of fried potato with a golden crust, topped with a creamy alioli and a bright, hot brava sauce. A crowd-pleaser in theory, though in hindsight, I suspect this duo of sauces may have been my undoing later that weekend.
By the end of the meal, I was full, happy… and just a little wary. The flavours had been spot-on, the quality undeniable, but I couldn’t quite ignore the growing volume around.
Service Experience
If the atmosphere was loud, the service had to be louder but unfortunately, that’s not how it played out. From the moment we sat down, ordering felt like a bit of a performance art piece. The music inside was so thunderous that the only way to discuss the menu with our waitress was to step outside into the street. We repeated this routine several times throughout the night, menus in hand, like some kind of tapas relay race.
A few of our first-choice dishes weren’t available, and given the noise, I eventually surrendered and asked the waitress to bring whatever she recommended. My dining companion had a much tougher challenge, a list of allergies that ruled out gluten and shellfish. Her choice, the seabass, seemed like a safe option… until it didn’t arrive.
An hour later, we asked after it, only to be told the kitchen had closed. Cue a flurry of back-and-forth conversations, and eventually the kitchen reopened, but by then the seabass had vanished from the menu of possibilities. She settled instead for grilled sardines, which were lovely but not what she’d been anticipating all evening.
On the other hand, I have to admit that our waitress was friendly and apologetic, doing her best to navigate the chaos. She seemed just as much at the mercy of the noise and festival mayhem as we were.
The Food Verdict
I’m in “two minds” about the food. On one hand, the food itself was consistently delicious. The prawns were fragrant and perfectly cooked, the meatballs rich and comforting, the sardines fresh and beautifully grilled. Each plate felt honest to its Spanish roots; simple, well-seasoned, and designed to be enjoyed with good company.
But there was a sting in the tail. About an hour after leaving TAPERNA, my stomach began to protest, and I spent the rest of the weekend nursing a bout of diarrhoea. I can’t say with certainty what caused it, but if I had to guess, my suspicion would fall on the alioli and brava sauce that topped the Patatas Bravas. It’s worth noting that no one else I dined with reported any issues, so this may have been a matter of bad luck or a personal reaction rather than a reflection of the kitchen overall.
Still, it added a slightly sour note to an otherwise flavourful evening, one that I couldn’t entirely ignore.
Overall Impression
TAPERNA is, in a word, an enigma. On the one hand, it delivers bold, authentic Spanish flavours that make every bite a delight – prawns sizzling in garlic, meatballs rich with tomato, and sardines that taste like the sea itself. On the other hand, it’s chaotic, loud, and at times overwhelming. The booming music, salsa dancers, and metal clangers made conversation nearly impossible, and the service struggled under the weight of the energy.
If you’re after a relaxing dinner where you can chat over drinks, this may not be your spot, at least, not on a Saturday night. But if you crave a lively, Ibiza-like Spanish party in the heart of Brixton, TAPERNA delivers an experience that’s hard to replicate. Think of it as tapas with a side of rave.
I later learned that our visit coincided with a local summer festival, which likely amplified the noise. Even so, TAPERNA markets itself as a live-music venue, so some level of chaos is baked in. I’m planning a second visit on a quieter night to see if my “two minds” can finally agree: is it a must-visit tapas destination, or a deliciously chaotic novelty? Either way, it’s an experience worth having, if you’re ready for a little madness alongside your meal.
Address: Arch 47, Atlantic Lane, Brixton, London, SW9 8LF
